Introduction: From the Netherlands to the Roof of the World
As a backpacker hailing from the flat landscapes of the Netherlands, the idea of trekking to the Mount Everest Base Camp (EBC) has always been a dream, one that seemed both daunting and exhilarating. After months of planning, saving, and training, the time finally came to swap my Dutch bicycle for hiking boots and set off on the adventure of a lifetime. This travel diary chronicles my journey from the lowlands of the Netherlands to the towering peaks of the Himalayas, sharing tips, experiences, and memories that will stay with me forever.
Day 1: Departing from Amsterdam
My journey began with a flight from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport to Kathmandu, the bustling capital of Nepal. The excitement was palpable as I boarded the plane, knowing that in a matter of hours, I would be landing in a country that is home to eight of the world’s ten highest peaks.
Day 2: Exploring Kathmandu
Kathmandu is a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells. The city is a chaotic blend of ancient temples, narrow streets, and vibrant markets. I spent the day visiting Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple), Durbar Square, and the famous Thamel district, where I stocked up on last-minute trekking gear. The lively atmosphere of Kathmandu was a perfect prelude to the solitude and serenity that awaited me in the mountains.
Day 3: Flight to Lukla – The Gateway to Everest
The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is not for the faint-hearted. Known as one of the world’s most dangerous airports, Lukla’s tiny runway is perched on a mountainside, and landing here was an adventure in itself. As I disembarked, the crisp mountain air hit me, and the reality of my trek started to sink in. This was it—I was standing at the gateway to Everest.
Day 4: Trekking Begins – Lukla to Phakding
My trek began with a relatively easy hike from Lukla to Phakding. The trail winds through charming villages, crossing suspension bridges adorned with fluttering prayer flags. The sound of the Dudh Koshi River accompanied me as I made my way to Phakding, where I spent the night in a cozy tea house. The first day’s trek was a gentle introduction to what lay ahead, with beautiful views of the surrounding peaks.
Day 5: Phakding to Namche Bazaar – The Sherpa Capital
The trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar was more challenging, with a steep ascent towards the end. As I climbed higher, the air grew thinner, and I had to pace myself to avoid altitude sickness. Namche Bazaar, a bustling market town, was a welcome sight. Nestled in a natural amphitheater, Namche is the gateway to the high Himalayas and serves as an acclimatization stop for trekkers. I spent an extra day here to adjust to the altitude, exploring the local markets and visiting the Sherpa Museum.
Day 7: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche – Spiritual High Point
Leaving Namche, I trekked towards Tengboche, home to the famous Tengboche Monastery, the largest monastery in the Khumbu region. The trail offered stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Reaching Tengboche felt like a spiritual experience; the tranquility of the monastery, set against the backdrop of towering peaks, was awe-inspiring. I attended a prayer ceremony at the monastery, a humbling experience that added a spiritual dimension to my journey.
Day 8-9: Tengboche to Dingboche – Into the Thin Air
The trek from Tengboche to Dingboche was where the landscape started to change dramatically. Trees gave way to shrubbery and then to barren, rocky terrain as I ascended further into the mountains. Dingboche, at 4,410 meters, was another acclimatization stop. I spent a day hiking to Nagarjun Hill, which offered panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. The altitude was beginning to take its toll, and I had to remind myself to stay hydrated and move slowly.
Day 10-11: Dingboche to Lobuche – On the Edge of the World
The trek to Lobuche was challenging, with the terrain becoming increasingly rugged. The highlight of the day was crossing the Thukla Pass, where a memorial site honors climbers who lost their lives on Everest. This was a sobering reminder of the mountain’s power and the respect it commands. Lobuche, a small settlement at 4,940 meters, felt like the edge of the world. The nights were cold, and the air was thin, but the excitement of being so close to Everest Base Camp kept my spirits high.
Day 12: Lobuche to Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp
This was the day I had been dreaming of. The trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep, the last stop before EBC, was tough, with rocky, uneven terrain. After a brief rest in Gorak Shep, I continued on to Everest Base Camp. The trail was challenging, but as I approached the base camp, the Khumbu Icefall came into view, and my heart swelled with emotion. Standing at Everest Base Camp, surrounded by towering peaks and glaciers, was a surreal experience. I had made it.
Day 13: Sunrise at Kala Patthar
The next morning, I woke up early to hike to Kala Patthar, a viewpoint known for its spectacular sunrise views of Everest. The climb was steep, and the altitude made it difficult, but the reward was worth it. As the sun rose, the peaks of Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse were bathed in golden light—a sight that will stay with me forever. It was the perfect culmination of my trek.
Day 14-16: The Descent Back to Lukla
The descent back to Lukla was quicker but still challenging. As I retraced my steps, I had time to reflect on the journey. The sense of accomplishment was overwhelming. Reaching Lukla felt like coming full circle, and as I boarded the plane back to Kathmandu, I knew that this adventure had changed me in ways I couldn’t yet fully comprehend.
Conclusion: Reflections on the Journey
Trekking to Everest Base Camp was the adventure of a lifetime, a journey that tested my physical and mental limits. From the bustling streets of Kathmandu to the remote, high-altitude trails of the Khumbu region, every moment was filled with awe and wonder. For fellow backpackers considering this trek, I can only say—go for it. The challenges are immense, but the rewards are beyond measure. Everest Base Camp is not just a destination; it’s a journey that will stay with you long after you’ve returned home.